Niacinamide – what’s the hype about

The cosmetics industry hails Niacinamide as one of the most effective chemical compounds for fighting skin aging, but is the hype really justified? Let’s take a look at the science.

What is Niacinamide

Niacinamide (scientific name: Nicotinamide – no relation to nicotine) is a form of a vitamin B3, essential to maintaining healthy cells and therefore to life. 

Niacinamide may be consumed through food (trace amounts are found in meat, fish, milk, eggs, green vegetables, and cereals), supplementation (taking niacinamide specifically or as part of the B-complex vitamins), and can be applied topically through creams, serums, and gels. For the purpose of this review, we will focus on topical application. 

What are the benefits of topical Niacinamide

Reduction in signs of aging

In cosmetics, niacinamide is mainly formulated at a concentration of 4 to 5% and is used to control skin aging and hyperpigmentation. Several clinical trials have shown that products containing niacinamide reduce signs of skin aging such as wrinkles, increase elasticity, and brighten skin colour. When niacinamide is used in a well-planned skin routine, you can expect an anti-aging effect comparable to that of retinol products. Combining niacinamide and retinol will produce even greater effects.

Natural aging and photoaging (caused by the sun or tanning beds) commonly accompany aging of our cells, chronic inflammation, and changes in networks outside of the cells consisting of collagen, enzymes and proteins.

The supply of niacinamide helps to normalize these changes, delaying cell aging and extending its lifespan. Niacinamide actively inhibits inflammation and increases collagen production. It also enhances the structural and functional integrity of the skin barrier.

Scientists are not certain how niacinamide does this exactly. It may be due to the intrinsic properties of nicotinamide, or the properties of other metabolites derived from nicotinamide, or both. They speculate that nicotinamide mitigates cell damage by scavenging free radicals or perhaps an indirect action that enhances the antioxidant capacity of cells. 

Protection from the sun

Used together with sunscreen products, niacinamide attenuates sun-induced skin aging and pigmentation.

Additionally, a 2015 study found supplemental niacinamide to reduce the rate of new non-melanoma skin cancers and age spots in individuals with high risk for the conditions. More on this topic soon.

Management of hyperpigmentation

Again it is not clear how niacinamide prevents excessive pigmentation stimulated by external factors such as the sun, but it is exactly what it does. Observed in multiple studies, nicotinamide appears to consistently decrease the amount of melanin (i.e. pigment) delivered to keratinocytes, the outermost layer of the skin.

When products containing nicotinamide are applied to hyperpigmented areas, skin-lightening effects can be expected. The facial skin-lightening effectiveness of 4% nicotinamide is almost comparable to that of 4% hydroquinone. 

Niacinamide effectiveness increases with the use of a device that helps transdermal absorption of the active ingredient such as an ultrasound device, or microneedling that help to break the skin barrier. Nicotinamide can be combined with other active ingredients, such as Vitamin C for added skin-lightening efficacy.

Conclusion

Studies have shown niacinamide to be effective in reducing the signs of aging in reducing wrinkles; controlling skin aging, managing hyperpigmentation and brightening the skin; and protection from the sun. 

Indeed, the hype around niacinamide seems justified. While we still don’t understand the mechanisms behind its effectiveness, the results of many clinical trials on humans suggest that niacinamide is a beneficial cosmetic ingredient that helps skin health and beauty without any severe side effects.